Wheelchair user forced to use the road at Gurney Drive.
Photo by Wuan.

Wuan and I were in Penang last week. That was not the first time we played tourists at Gurney Drive. The previous times we were there, we liked to stroll along the Casuarina-lined promenade early in the morning and evening to soak in the beautiful seascape and then adjourn to one of the numerous kopitiams for some local hawker fare afterwards.

The Toyota Unser sped by just mere inches away from a wheelchair user at Gurney Drive.
Photo by Wuan.

We did the same this trip except we realised that kerb ramps to get to the promenade are far and few in between. I had to go on the road for quite a distance from the Gurney Resort Hotel and Residences, where we were staying, before we arrived at the first kerb ramp opposite Evergreen Laurel Hotel. In between that, I had to brave oncoming traffic on the road, hoping and praying that I won’t get hit by a car or a motorcycle speeding by us before I got to the kerb ramp.

Wheelchair user fighting for space on the road at Gurney Drive.
Photo by Wuan.

Gurney Drive is a rather long stretch of road, about 1.9km from end to end. Likewise the seafront promenade, which is a continuous stretch of uninterrupted walkway. There are simply too few kerb ramps for wheelchair users to get onto the promenade or get off to go to the kopitiams across the road. As a popular tourist destination, the lack of accessibility makes it difficult for disabled people to fully enjoy our time there. Most importantly, our safety is severely compromised each time we are forced to use the road with other vehicles while trying to locate a kerb ramp.

Blind pedestrian crossing sign and kerb ramps on both sides of the road at Gurney Drive.
Photo by Wuan.

The Penang state government, the Majlis Perbandaran Pulau Pinang (MPPP) and the Ministry of Tourism Malaysia should make a serious effort in improving the accessible facilities at Gurney Drive in line with the government’s effort to promote tourism in the country as well as to fulfil the obligations as required under the Persons with Disabilities Act 2008, namely the rights of equal access to public facilities, and to recreation and leisure activities.

My neighbours in Taman Pekaka celebrated the birthday of the “latuk kong” (resident deity) last Thursday. Worshippers who contributed to the festival were each given a goodie bag of fruits, two mee koo (tortoise buns) and a box of nasi kunyit (steamed turmeric glutinous rice) with curry chicken. They gave me one bag too when I dropped in to collect some things from the apartment.

Mee koo – tortoise bun.

Wuan and I ate the nasi kunyit and fruits when we got back to the hotel but decided to take the mee koo back to Kuala Lumpur. The mee koo is basically a bun made into the shape of a tortoise with a head, legs and tail. It is used as an offering to deities during festivals. They are also given out during birthday celebrations of elderly people.

Pink mee koo are more common as the colour signifies auspiciousness while the tortoise shape represents longevity. On the same note, yellow is also an auspicious colour. It is a matter of preference of the deity who will inform the worshippers through a medium during a trance. Halal nasi kunyit with either chicken or mutton curry is predominantly an offering for latuk kongs.

The mee koo can be eaten just like that when fresh. Alternatively, it can be coated with beaten eggs and made into toasts. I also like them with a generous dollop of butter hot from the steamer. Wuan turned the mee koo into toasts for breakfast this morning. This is the recipe she used:

Mee koo toasts – tortoise bun toasts.

Mee Koo Toasts Recipe

Peel the skin off the mee koo. If the skin is stuck fast, steam for 10 minutes and it will come off easily. Cut into 3/4″ thick slices. Heat oil in pan. Coat generously with egg. Fry in low heat until golden brown. Serves two.

Roti babi – Song River Cafe, Gurney Drive, Penang.

My quest for delicious roti babi saw me discovering a stall selling roti back in my hometown in Penang. This island is also where I first grew a dislike for this dish of Hainan and Peranakan origin. I was barely in my teenage years then. My mother used to make it once every few months. I was only allowed to eat only one half portion of the roti babi because she considered me too young to be eating too much of such oily food.

That was no great loss to the young me. The greasiness of the deep fried egg-coated bread dipped in the weird tasting “ang moh tau eu”, the Hokkien name for Lea and Perrins Worcestershire Sauce, and eaten with sliced red chillies, always made me nauseous. I guess the shredded cabbage bits contributed to that malady as well. As a kid, I was already a fussy eater and cabbage was one of the vegetables that my taste buds were greatly averse to. To make a long story short, over the years, I have gradually come to love it and have been having cravings for roti babi in recent years.

We made our way up to Penang on Tuesday morning, dropped the cats off for boarding in Ipoh Garden and had a late lunch with Wuan’s parents at Ipoh Old Town. We checked in at about 7pm at the Gurney Resort Hotel & Residences, our journey delayed by intermittent rain along the North South Expressway. We were tired but not that hungry and decided on Song River Cafe which was just a short distance from the hotel. I was delighted when I saw that the lor bak stall also served roti babi and duly ordered one.

Lets just say that I have eaten more delicious roti babi elsewhere. There wasn’t any hint of crab meat, potato or carrot in the filling. Perhaps, they were well mixed into the minced pork. The Worcestershire sauce also tasted bland, none of that nauseous-inducing flavour that I have come to like. One serving costs RM3.50. My cravings are definitely not satiated. The quest continues.