Hankering For Home-Cooked Hakka Food

As a kid, Chinese New Year meant that I got to wear new clothes and receive the gift of ang paus from uncles, aunties, cousins, neighbours and friends of the family. Mind you, I have very generous relatives. By the end of the celebration on the fifteenth day, I usually would have amassed a small fortune equal to two years’ worth of daily allowance at that time.

But the new clothes and the ang paus were not what I looked forward to most during those occasions. It was the food, an abundance of food that were cooked only during those first few days, that made the Chinese New Year extraordinary. It was only during those few days of festivities that I got to eat some very flavourful Hakka dishes when we celebrate the festivities at my maternal uncle’s house on the second day.

As I write this, I am already salivating at the thought of the aroma and taste of some of those dishes. They were cooked in very large and heavy cast iron kualis on a big cement stove over a wood fire. The smell of smoke from the burning wood mingled freely with the aroma of the food as they were stir-fried or simmered to perfection. If the fire was not hot enough, the flame would be kindled by blowing air into it through a length of bamboo.

Delicious Hakka dishes
Delicious Hakka dishes (From top left): Stir-fried mixed vegetables, stir-fried belly pork and wood-ear fungus in preserved red bean curd, stir-fried arrow root with belly pork, and braised pig trotter and sengkuang in yellow bean paste.

One of my favourite dishes was, still is, pig trotter and sengkuang braised in a gravy of yellow bean paste and spices. The gravy was sourish, sweetish and salty at the same time. I would spoon copious amount of it onto my rice to eat with the tender meat and tasty sengkuang. The other dish that I would dig into heartily was deep fried pork belly in batter of preserved red bean curd dipped in home-made chilli sauce. Heavenly!

Hakka food has a distinct flavour made unique by the pungence of preserved red bean curd. It is used in many of the recipes. Most of the dishes also use a plentiful amount of belly pork. This makes the food rather greasy. Health concerns aside, they tasted good nonetheless with the liberal use of sugar, salt, thick soya sauce and pork lard. As for the last ingredient, cooking oil simply could not replace it to give Hakka dishes that edge in tantalizing my discriminating taste buds honed for decades by relatives who cooked nothing but the best tasting Hakka cuisine.

The other dishes that I got to eat during Chinese New Year were stir-fried arrow root and belly pork and stir-fried wood-ear fungus and belly pork in preserved red bean curd. The arrow root slices and belly pork were coated in a sticky layer of gravy that was slightly sweet. I especially like the other dish for the crunchiness of the black fungus and belly pork well marinated in preserved red bean curd.

The were the ubiquitous big bowls of piping hot green pea soup cooked with gizzard to complete the feast. To drink the soup, one had to push aside the layer of oil on the surface with a spoon. If my memory serves me right, I have not had the soup for more than three occasions. I disliked the murkiness, the raw taste of the peas and how they made the texture of the soup coarse to the tongue.

Come to think of it, the photo above was taken in 2004. That has been how long since I have eaten those dishes. I would love to learn the recipes but they have been handed down by word of mouth and hands-on cooking through the generations. The amount of ingredients needed are quantified by the gut feelings of the cook rather than by measuring spoons and weighing scales.

Even if I learn to cook, I cannot possibly finish the food, not even if I share it with Wuan, due to my diet. I guess I will just have to wait until the Chinese New Year season and make my way up to Penang to eat bits of those Hakka dishes that, despite six years of hiatus, are still making my mouth water each time I think of them.

Choon Kee Hakka Noodles At Jalan Sayur

Choon Kee Hakka Noodles at Jalan Sayur, Pudu
Choon Kee Hakka noodles at Jalan Sayur, Pudu.

I woke up early last Saturday. Well, waking up at 9 am is early for me on weekends. Wuan was about to go to the Pudu market to buy shrimps for the arowana. Since I was already awake, I offered to drive her. As we circled around to look for parking, we got hungry. Wuan suggested that we check out the Hakka noodles at Jalan Sayur. I readily agreed since I did not get to taste the noodles from this seemingly popular stall the last time we were there.

The stall shares the end lot with a few other stalls in a row of zinc roofed shops by the junction of Jalan Sayur and Jalan Pudu. These shops must have been there for as long as anyone can remember. They are what food courts are like 80 years ago. Two banners, one in Chinese the other English, hanging from the roof inform customers that they are opened from 6 am to 10 pm and tells a brief history of the stall. They have been selling hakka noodles since 1931 and that the fourth generation is running the business now.

While it is popularly known as hakka noodles, the yellow-coloured signboard at the shop says “Da Pu Mian”. The Chinese characters on the glass surface of the stall says “Chun Ji Da Pu Mian”. “Chun” is the name of the stall, usually the owner’s. The suffix “ji” denotes that it is an eatery. “Da Pu” is a town in the Guandong Province in China with a predominant Hakka population. “Mian” means noodles. This place is so rich in heritage that its history is worth chronicling, especially the stalls that have been operating in the same location for nearly one century already.

Choon Kee Hakka Noodles at Jalan Sayur, Pudu
The yellow signboard and the red Chinese words on the stall says “Chun Ji Da Pu Mian”.

There were several groups of young people mingling around the stall. I thought they were waiting in queue. I did not fancy waiting for thirty minutes again. It turned out that there was a tuition centre nearby and the group of teenagers were waiting for their classes to begin. Wuan spotted an empty table right beside the stall and we quickly made our way there.

While I settled down, Wuan went to stand in line to order. One of the helpers told Wuan that he would come to the table to take our orders. Anticipating a long wait, Wuan went off to the market to buy the shrimps. From where I was, I could observe the activity of the middle-aged couple manning the stall. The man cooked the noodles while the woman added minced meat, char siu and vegetables to complete the orders.

I was impressed with the couple’s memory as they both could remember at least ten orders in succession and prepare them accordingly. First, one could order small, medium or large portions of either noodles or lou shi fun. Some of the customers wanted extra mince meat while others wanted extra wantans. All those they could remember. While they were taking orders, their hands never stopped working.

Choon Kee Hakka Noodles at Jalan Sayur, Pudu
Choon Kee Hakka Noodles at Jalan Sayur, Pudu.

There was an unending stream of customers queuing up for take-away and a similar queue of customers waiting for tables. After a twenty-minute wait, the man cooking the noodles asked for my order. Five minutes later, our two small portions came with a bowl of three wantan dumplings each. Minced pork and char siu were piled on top of the noodles together with choy sum and garnished with spring onion. It was a pleasant surprise when I found some bak eu pok (crispy pork lard) together with the minced meat. The little bits of crispy pork lard enhanced the taste and aroma of the noodle.

A small portion of noodle costs RM4.00, medium RM4.40 and large RM4.60. I would say the price is reasonable. Wuan and I were pretty full afterwards. The half-hour wait was worth it. The noodles, minced pork, char siu and wantan dumplings were all nicely done. The plus point is that the place is accessible by wheelchair from the car park although there is no accessible parking. By the way, parking at Jalan Sayur costs RM2 per entry. I am definitely going back for seconds and thirds and more. No doubt about that.

Choon Kee Hakka Noodles at Jalan Sayur Pudu
Choon Kee Hakka Noodles at Jalan Sayur, Pudu.

Choon Kee Hakka Noodles topped with minced pork and char siu
Hakka noodles topped with minced pork, char siu, choy sum and spring onion at Choon Kee.

The bowl of wantan dumplings that come with the Hakka noodles
The bowl of wantan dumplings that came with the Hakka noodles at Choon Kee.

Fomenting Fermented Red Bean Curd

Fermented red bean curd.

Savouring dishes cooked with the fermented red bean curd is an acquired taste. Either you love it or you do not. Some are put off by its pungent smell and taste. I love it. This must have been cultivated in me since childhood. Mum was a Hakka. Red fermented bean curd is used extensively in Hakka cuisines. I do not eat dishes cooked with this as often as I would like to. This salt preserved soy-based product is not good for my kidneys.

Deep fried fermented red bean curd pork.

One of my favourite Hakka dishes is the Deep Fried Fermented Red Bean Curd Pork. Belly pork is usually used. I find that too greasy to my liking. I do not know if this has been done before but I substituted belly pork with chicken breast. It tasted just as nice sans the greasiness. It is the batter that is important. I believe its taste is not as authentic as it should be. I am still trying to tweak the batter ingredients ratio each time this is cooked. Hopefully one day I will get it right.

Bean curd chicken nuggets.

Hakka Chicken Nuggets

1 piece chicken breast (approximately 300g)

2 cubes fermented red bean curd
Half cup wheat flour
Half tsp sugar
Quarter tsp five spice powder
150ml water

1 cup cooking oil

Cut chicken into bite size pieces. Mix the batter ingredients and stir well. Marinate the chicken in the batter for 2 hours. When ready, heat cooking oil in wok and deep dry the chicken until nicely browned. Serve with cucumber and chilli sauce. The chilli sauce can also be made by pounding 4 red chillies and 2 cloves of garlic. Add juice from one calamansi (lime) and half a teaspoon of sugar to the paste.